The motorcycle was balanced against the wall to keep it from falling when the lower bolts were pulled out and the center stand wouldn’t support it. The safer way to do this would be to use a motorcycle stand, but I didn’t own one, and it looked like it would be too much trouble to fashion a makeshift stand for the Royal Enfield. So I just took care not to let the motorcycle fall over.
Next, the frame plates were inserted to check fit. All of the holes were in the perfect location except for the front downtube attachment holes. With a round file, I elongated those about 1 mm forward and downward to make them fit. Some of the other holes needed a quick run through with the drill bit to make them the perfect radius for the bolts.
The plates and lower rectangular tube were bolted on, along with four spacers designed to take up space in the bottom end.
The upper rectangular tube and lower battery shelf were assembled.
The second and third shelves were added, and the hex bolts were fit and trimmed.
Next, the motor was mounted using 4 flange bolts.
The motor looked like it belonged there, fitting perfectly where the transmission used to be, and it did not block the right foot peg. And the motor terminals did not interfere with the frame or battery stacks. Wow, it couldn’t be better.
Then the lower battery modules were stacked and bolted, including battery spacers above, below, and between each module. The upper battery modules were stacked in the same way. The upper shelf was fit, drilled, and bolted to the forward and aft attachment points. I couldn’t find hex bolts long enough to fit the top stack, so I made bolts from 5/16 inch all-thread and acorn nuts, securing the acorn nuts with threadlocker. I used nyloc nuts on the bottom of all the vertical bolts going through the battery modules.
The fit of the batteries was excellent. The battery stacks were prevented from shifting and the weight of the motorcycle remained low and centered. The battery terminals were also accessible for monitoring.
Next: Mount the components